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Quince Chutney: Condiment with a Kick

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quince chutney on bread
Quince chutney, goat cheese and bread, oh my!

Chutneys are one of those things I discovered late in life. A friend (with more culinary savvy than I) plunked a jar of Major Grey’s Chutney on the table to go with some cheese and rustic bread. The combo of cheddar, crust and chutney made me sit up and take notice. Chutney and I have been on a first name basis ever since.

quince chutney
This serving of quince chutney is destined to crown a grilled salmon fillet.

So just what is chutney? Derived from the East Indian word “chatni,” chutney is a wonderfully spicy condiment with a kick (and at times downright hot), incorporating fruits and/or vegetables with vinegar, sugar and spices. The mixture is then cooked slowly to meld the flavors and create desired consistency, which can range from a soft paste to a chunky sauce.  Chutney is my preferred condiment (only matched by my love of mayonnaise). I’ll plop a dollop on roasted chicken, or smear a spoonful atop a cream cheese and lox ladened bagel, or add a couple spoonfuls to spice up rice.

fresh whole quince
Quince continue to ripen at room temperature, filling the room with a heady perfume.

Recently a friend shared his ample crop of quince with me, no doubt compelled to intervene after hearing me whine about my wimpy crop. Quince chutney was the first thing I made, followed by quince marmalade. Here’s my quince chutney recipe adapted from The British Larder, a UK restaurant generous enough to share their inspired recipes featuring fresh and local produce and meats. This is now one of my favorites.

quince on a tray
Quince, a beautiful fruit ripe with culinary possibilities.

Quince Chutney

Meal type Condiment
Quince are a fall treat, but can be hard to find. The recipe also works well substituting quince with apples and/or pears.

Ingredients

  • 1 cup cider vinegar
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1/2 cup golden raisins
  • 3lb quince (Start with 3 pounds, then remove core and seeds, no need to peel)
  • 3 Cloves crushed garlic, finely minced
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 large onion, finely minced
  • 1 Knob (thumb size) fresh ginger, finely grated
  • 1/4 Cup candied ginger, finely diced
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 Teaspoon pepper

Directions

Step 1
Place all ingredients into heavy bottom stockpot or dutch oven.
Step 2
Simmer and stir often to prevent scorching.
Step 3
Simmer until chutney thickens and all ingredients are incorporated.
Step 4
Remove from heat, and place in jars with lids.
Step 5
Seal jars in hot water bath and store in cool dark place.
Canning Quince Chutney
Quince Chutney: Star in a Jar.

Vashon Island Halloween Spills Into the Streets

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Vashon Island Roasterie pumpkin display
A pride of pumpkins: The Vashon Island Coffee Roasterie bedecks and bedazzles its porch rails with jack o’lanterns galore and aglow, each carved by an island volunteer.

When The Vashon Island Coffee Roasterie starts lining up pumpkins on the porch, you know Halloween can’t be far behind. Because island residents are spread out, and dark rural lanes the norm, Halloween is celebrated in the centrally-located, well-lit, easy-to-navigate town of Vashon. Merchants open their doors to hordes of goblins, ghosts, ninjas and fairy princesses, and Vashon Highway is closed for several blocks, becoming a pedestrian friendly promenade for the night. It’s one of my favorite spectacles on the island, kids, parents, kin and crazy revelers take over town, with a community block party that would warm a skeleton’s frame like a dip in a hot tub.

The Witches of Burton bring a little style and a lot of candy to town.
The Witches of Burton bring a little style and a lot of candy to town.
clown witch halloween
Role reversal: bad clown (sorry Miffy), and good witch.
Two of my favorite Vashonistas taking Harajuku excess to a whole new level.
Two of my favorite Vashonistas taking Harajuku excess to a whole new level.
skulls in a coffin halloween
Aptly named Zombies Drive-in displayed some patrons who didn’t pay.
halloween raven
A costume Edgar Allan Poe could embrace, the Raven said.
vashon bob monster
A rare sighting of the Vashon Bog Monster, elegantly attired in a tux for his annual visit to town. (Though one friend said, that’s what she looks like after a winter in the Pacific Northwest.
Bulldogs on the sofa
Gracie and Boz opted for an evening in, reminding me that they don’t do dress-up. (Though here I do believe they are disguised as retired guard dogs).

As for me, I dressed up as a happy local enjoying the evening. Next year, I’ll get a little more creative, I promise.

Iran Pumpkin: The Oldest Pumpkin on the Farm

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Iran pumpkin - tall clover farm
Two Iran pumpkins, still looking good after one year off the vine.

Pumpkins are my favorite field crop to grow; the vines and tendrils twist in artistic revelry; the leaves unfurl like giant sunbrellas, the blossoms are unapologetic showstoppers, and the fruit, well, the fruit is nothing less than a richly patinaed living sculpture. Oh yes, and don’t forget, the plump darlings make unparalleled pie along with savory and sweet soups, sauces, baked goods and side dishes.

fresh Iran Pumpkins
Iran pumpkins are a kaleidoscope of color when first picked, the intense hues mellowing to creamy oranges and yellows as they mature.

Iran pumpkins have another quality unmatched in any other pumpkin I’ve grown: longevity. The three Iran pumpkins I harvested last year in October 2012 are still firmly intact and decorating my harvest table in October 2013. I wish I could tell you how they taste, but they look so good, I can’t quite bare to roast them, besides I have warty ones for that purpose. Several sources have suggested that Iran pumpkins are better lookers than tasters, though I cannot verify that at this time. I would think the pumpkin has some culinary chops considering it has been on Persian tables for hundreds of years.

Boz the bulldog and the pumpkins
Boz has nothing against pumpkins, but he’s a little put out they’re hogging up his favorite perch.

And even if Iran pumpkins lack depth in the culinary department, they easily make up for it in the eye-candy department. Pretty to look it is good enough for me.

iran pumpkin on the vine
Iran pumpkin: a brightly-colored gem in the pumpkin patch.

Have you ever tasted or cooked an Iran pumpkin. Is so, what did you think? Tasty? Just Okay? Delicious? Let me know in the comments, please.

Related:

A Foggy Day in Vashon Town

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upstairs view foggy day
View North: Chandelier crystals capture what little light prevails this foggy day.

Fog has been a needy companion this week, hugging our island with a fervent embrace reminiscent of a hapless guest who doesn’t understand personal space or overstaying one’s welcome. After a week, I must say the tides have turned and we’ve become reluctant friends. I call it the weather Stockholm Syndrome. As a prisoner to the fog, I must make nice and survive in close quarters with my captor.

fall color vashon island
View west: Crimson Glory grape vine takes center stage on an old, wonderfully artful madrona snag.

When the fog greeted me again this morning, I wanted to capture some of the beauty of its atmospheric airbrushing.  I took my trusty point-and-shoot and peered out  of my favorite upstair windows and framed the mood of a day slowed down.

foggy view guest room Vashon Island
The kind of guest-room view that makes it okay to stay in bed a little longer.

My second-story crows nest affords me some lovely views and quiet daydreams before I start my day. Hopefully they will do the same for you.

bigleaf maple vashon island
Looking east: Next to the bare summer table, the bigleaf maple readies itself for a long and well-deserved rest.
foggy woods Vashon island
To the south, the untamed forest keeps its distance.
bigleaf maple foggy day vashon
Downstairs, the back stoop is a fine spot to enjoy the day’s first cup of coffee and the season’s first call for a sweater.

And should you need a soundtrack for your foggy morning, it doesn’t get any better than Louis and Ella singing A Foggy Day in London Town. (Ella joins in at 2:00.)  Now, maybe just one more cup of coffee for me and it will lift of little of my fog.

An Apple a Day Keeps the Veterinarian Away

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My Bulldogs Boz and Gracie Love Apples!

Boz the bulldog case of Bramleys Seedling Apples
Boz in a self-induced apple coma.

Yesterday I picked from two of my favorite apple trees: Bramley’s Seedling and Belle de Boskoop. Each orchard youngster yielded about 20 pounds (or one case each) of crisp, tart, fresh-eating, sauce-making, pie-ready apples. As you can see from my string of adjectives, they are exceptional all-purpose apples.

Belle de Boskoop apple tree
My Belle de Boskoop apple tree seems to be a biennial producer, and a natural self-thinner, dropping the runt apples early in the season.

I am not alone in my love of apples; Boz and Gracie are also keen consumers of all things pomological.  When we all started eating a little lighter, and I began switching out their dog biscuits for apple slices, there was no turning back. Boz and Gracie became fresh fruit connoisseurs and canine apple scouts. My furry foragers found every old, new and wild apple tree on the property and gorge themselves on windfall fruit. (Now if I could just harness their gas as a household heating fuel, the circle would be complete.)

bulldog under the apple tree
Boz sniffs out the fallen apple, dispatches it quickly, and without a trace of evidence. A few seconds to digest it all, and then on to the next apple.

As dog breeds go, I would venture to say an English Bulldog is a veterinarian’s favorite patient. Sure they’re cute, cuddly and comical, but for a seasoned vet, one bulldog represents a week of helicopter skiing in Aspen simply on skin care charges alone. As you know I have two bulldogs, so when I walk through the door with Boz and Gracie, and see him smile, I wonder will our visit be funding a time-share in Kona, or a down payment on a Paris apartment?

bulldogs in the apple orchard

Lucky for me, Boz and Gracie have been relatively healthy bullies. I attribute it to at least one apple a day, a couple belly rubs, naps as needed, and a whole lot of love.  Come to think of it, that’s my regimen for keeping healthy and happy, too.

washington state apples Bramleys
An apple a day…

Behind the Tall Clover Curtain

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bulldogs in my truckBoz and Gracie glaring, their mugs say it all. “Dude, would it kill you to clean out the truck” And yes, those are potatoes growing in the back next to the vase full from two days of torrential rains. (Hash browns to go!)

A friend has taken to chiding me about my edited life as presented here on Tall Clover Farm. Her favorite line, “You don’t see that on your blog.” is both endearing and a wee bit grating at the same time. I reply, “No one wants to see my junk drawers or stacked dirty dishes.” To which she challenges, “Oh don’t they Tom, don’t they?”

Blogs are curious things, and they do present life in a rarified way as an edited version of all that is going on. I get it.  In fact, there are a couple of sites I visit for the sheer purpose of being annoyed. I ask myself how do they do it? As if each morning a flurry of buntings dresses them, and coffee brews in a French press delivered by the French press. Harvesting grapes is easy, especially when all of the farmhands have fallen from the pages of Abercrombie and Fitch. The wine practically makes itself. Each dinner is a six-course Babette’s Feast, and the house, make that chateau, is always spotless and well-appointed.  They leave a couple notes and doodles on a napkin, and it’s discovered by a rep at Harper Collins who wants them to write a cookbook and host a cooking show.  A simple farm bouquet is an armload of homegrown, blackspot-free roses and softball-size dahlias that look incredible in the eighteen-century sterling urn they found at the neighbor’s garage sale for 25 cents. Yep, life edited, indeed.

So rest assured, life on the farm is pretty real, a litany of projects unrealized and chores ignored. Toss in some dog-based distractions, neighborly interruptions, a pinch of procrastination and indecision, and too few hours in the day. Something we all understand and share. So here’s to all the cluttered closets, dusty to-do lists and sinks with last night’s dishes piled high. Oh yeah, we’ve got better things to do.

Let me offer this encouragement; you are not alone.

Pumpkinhead As you can see, I am easily distracted. (Ooooh look, something shiny!)

tarp roof barn The good news: I re-roofed the barn last spring

old shop barnThe bad news: roof on, spring cleaning will hopefully happen in October.

bulldog in the dahliasBoz in the dahlia field,  pointing out that the weeds are taking over.

greenhouse beginning to grow

The greenhouse was not built in a day. I hope to finish it up in the next few days, adding side wall roller bars and venting transoms on the side walls.

Indian free peachOne peach out of eight peach trees; cold spring rains result in poor pollination and fruit set.

lattice top peach pieOkay, well that’s enough of that, now back to showing off. May I interest you in some Peach pie? (Peaches courtesy of the Washington State Fruit Commission.)

 

Orcas Pear: My One and Only

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Orcas Pear

Orcas Pear: blush in a basket

I just picked my first (and only) Orcas pear from the three-year-old tree in my orchard. (Just wait until next year’s bumper crop!) According to WSU, “Orcas pear is a seedling discovered by Joe Long, a farmer on Orcas Island, WA. Introduced commercially in 1986, the trees are resistant to pear scab and  productive, fruit is large and uniform size, good for canning or drying as well as fresh eating.”

Before I moved to Vashon Island, I was a frequent visitor to Orcas Island in the San Juan Islands just an hour and half north of Seattle. I feel safe in saying the San Juans and their Canadian counterparts the Gulf Islands are magical places, rare, beautiful, and wonderfully special. So any pear born in that archipelago must be worth growing.

orcas pear sliced Orcas pear: a fine fresh eating summer pear — smooth, subtle, sweet.

Taste test: I really enjoyed the texture and the flavor of the Orcas pear. Not as grainy as a Bartlett, the flesh pretty much melted in my mouth and the juice held a brightness and sweetness, usually found in winter pears like Comice.

Here’s what One Green World Nursery has to say about them:

Discovered on Orcas Island, Washington, this excellent, disease-resistant variety produces good crops of very large and attractive, carmine blushed, yellow pears with smooth, sweet,buttery flesh. Excellent for fresh eating, canning and drying, Orcas is very reliable and productive and ripens in early to mid-September. These beautiful and tasty Pears can weigh of 1 lb. each!

Latin Name: Pyrus communis

Site and Soil: European Pears like full to 1/2 day sun and well-drained soil.

Pollination Requirements: European Pears need another variety nearby for cross-pollination. Our Asian Pear varieties can also be used as pollinators.

Hardiness: European Pears are hardy to minus 25°F. or below.

Bearing Age: 2-3 years after planting.

Size at Maturity: 10-12 ft. in height.

BloomTime: April

Ripening Time: Early September

Yield: 50+ lbs.

Pests & Diseases: Our European Pear varieties are generally quite disease resistant and easy to grow. Except for occasional problems with Codling Moth, we have not seen significant insect damage on our varieties.

USDA Zone: 4

Sunset Western Zone: 2-11, 14-18

Sunset Northeast Zone: 32, 34-41

Orcas pear peels tall clover farm Better make like a pear and peel…more later!

I’d definitely recommend the Orcas pear for your home orchard. Winter pears like Comice, Bosc, and D’anjou require refrigerated storage to ripen properly, but Orcas is a summer pear that ripens days after picking. And dare I say, I think I prefer it to the mainstay pear of summer, the Bartlett pear.

Online Nursery Sources for Orcas Pear trees:

Bacon Bits on Demand

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bacon ice cube trayBacon bits, bacon bits, right at my fingertips.

Announcing she had something for me, Karen cracked open the farmhouse freezer like a back-room safe. Standing before the frosty shelves piled high with butcher-wrapped bricks of meat, she rifled around a bit, searching for my presumed prize. The voice in my head was pleading, “Please let it be bacon, bacon, bacon!” The telepathic powers of pining for pork prevailed, and she handed me a chubby baton marked “bacon.” I began to tear up.

Karen knows I love a good BLT, and that this week I was trying to harvest every last ripe and near-ripe tomato slicer before the rains set in. And as an added bonus and a tip of the hat to autumn and my penchant for pies,  this generous farmer added one more thing to my awaiting arms: a tub of leaf lard, the gold standard fat for making perfect pie crusts. (Swooning, I had to find a seat and fan myself.)

chopped bacon frozen

Frozen bacon cubes: out of the freezer and into the frying pan

After I finished  slicing up the thawed bacon slab into strips, I had some chunky bits and pieces left.  I decided to treat them as I do homemade pesto. By placing the uncooked bacon bits in an ice cube tray, I could freeze them in individual measures, ready to be dropped into a heated pan to flavor up a myriad of dishes, like wilted salad, green beans, soup, fried rice, or anything begging to be bathed in the smoky perfume of bacon.

frozen bacon cubeTwo frozen lumps of fatty smoked goodness

bacon bits frying panTo remove the frozen bacon from the ice cube tray, simply twist it as you would with ice cubes and the little bacon balls pop right out. Toss them all in a Zip-loc bag bound for the freezer and use them whenever a recipe calls for bacon bits or lardons or pancetta.  Now don’t forget to wash the ice cube tray with hot soapy water; I can assure you while bacon is great flavor enhancement to many foods, iced tea is not one them.

Summer′s Last Swim, Perhaps

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This morning the fog has crept in low and slow, and wrapped itself around my house like a big unasked-for hug. Surprisingly, the birds are unruffled about our weather change, chirping, singing and calling from every direction, happy to hide behind the cloak of this presumptuous caller.

Around here, fog is a harbinger of fall (or at least, the final days of summer). The temperature of Puget Sound and that of the atmosphere above it make for a steamy stew each morning. By noon the thick, cloudy layers will dissipate as if by magic, swept away by gentle breezes and a sun re-awakened. But this morning, the fog is different, heavier, and more resolute. It lumbers about not veiling the trees but rather eating them whole.  To the west, a grove of fir manages to prevail as a telling foil, revealing that our morning fog is really more of a drizzling mist. What a difference a day does make; just yesterday the sun found every corner of the sky and island, and the Sound was as flat as a mirror, and calling me for one last swim.

My friend Karen is to be credited with one of my favorite summer-day rituals: swimming in the Sound. To say the experience is bracing is a bit of an understatement. Puget Sound water temperatures vary little between winter and summer, so you must find some idyllic protected  sandy beach that warms the water with the incoming tide. And by warming I mean, allows you to swim without floating to the top as a hypothermic popsicle.

Karen and I set our time to meet; we knew such a sunny day late in the season could not be ignored, and that perhaps this swim would be our final splash of summer. I arrived first, but Karen was right behind me, both of us sporting well-known rides that folks around here lovingly call “island trucks.” Karen lowered the tailgate. From under the camper top emerged Tank, Luna, and Molly, Karen’s elder dogs and canine family. Each peered over the tailgate shelf and leapt with the grace and determination of a retired champion. We all marched down to the beach single file, like an impromptu circus parade.

Passing by the house, Karen and I were saddened to see the grand dame closed up for another year. Our friends had returned to Boston, and the front porch was empty and silent of  conversation and the pontifications of the Burton literati (and their take on our  swimming attire).

On the beach bluff stands a lone madrona tree. More art than tree, the quiet keeper punctuates the property, twisting skyward, one trunk opening to three. Its smooth red  bark shocks against a summer’s blue sky. And the old tree has seen many summers, and heard many bouts of laughter beneath its boughs, including ours.

The tide and sun obliged our late arrival, sharing as much warmth as each could muster at the end of the day.  Once we made it past the logjam ramparts littering the shore, Karen and I paused, took deep breaths and waded in slowly. The dogs followed, slowly as well. Nearsighted Tank stopped when the water was at chest level, Molly too. Luna swam in circles and whimpered near the shore, her dog paddle fixed in a clockwise direction.

Karen and I caught up on the day with each step, no doubt hoping small talk would take our minds off of the ice water around us. And then when I neared the tenor-about-to-turn-soprano-thigh-high level, I pushed off and dove forward, cruising below the surface as far as one breath and a little shock plunge would take me. I celebrated my reemergence to the surface with a couple “boo-yahs!’ and several head shakes and a statement of the obvious, “Man, that’s cold!” Karen smiled, agreed wholeheartedly and started her swim to the outer buoy.  (I prefer to swim closer to shore in case of leg cramps, though we do keep an eye on each other.) In the distance, the waning din of a motorboat was interrupted by the shrill antics of two bald eagles and a cadre of crows in hot pursuit.  All was right with the world.

I have no photos to share. Yesterday was a perfect day for remembering, for me to simply close my eyes and recall a fine summer day and fun swim with a friend.  The sun couldn’t have been brighter, the sea no smoother, the water no more clear. Indeed, All was right with the world, and that is the snapshot I will keep in my mind.

So close your eyes and think of your most perfect summer day and enjoy it all winter.

As one fine woman once said, “…the right kind of day is jeweled balm for the battered spirit.” I couldn’t agree more.

How to Make a Better Fruit Fly Trap

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fruit fly trap bowl

 Behold, a fruit fly trap that really works and doesn’t require a mechanical engineering degree.

With my countertops buckling under the weight of ripe produce, the fruit flies have taken noticed and returned in a flurry. Ah but I have a secret weapon, a fruit fly trap that works, one that I fashioned while adhering to two of my favorite farm practices: use what’s on hand, and make it yourself.

There are a bazillion DIY fruit fly trap instructions on the interWebs, but I’ve never found one that worked very well. Some required a scientific advisory board, NASA materials, and exotic baits, but the DIY Tall Clover Fruit Fly Trap is as simple as it is effective. And I bet dollars to doughnuts, you have the materials and skills to successfully pull this little how-to off .

fruit fly bowl trapSo simple, yet so effective

How to Make a Better Fruit Fly Trap

Materials: 

  • shallow bowl
  • fresh fruit bits, scraps like apple cores, peach pits, onion peels, tomatoes
  • plastic or cling wrap
  • toothpick

Instructions:

  1. In a shallow bowl, add a few fruit scraps, stone fruit pits, and/or veggies
  2. Cover bowl tightly with plastic wrap.
  3. Using a toothpick, make 2-3 holes in the middle of the plastic cover, each about the size of a grain of rice.
  4. Place bowl on counter where fruit flies will enter the ‘dining hall’ by following the scent, but will not be able to escape. (Insert diabolical laugh and hand wringing.)
  5. Empty bowl when full, rinse and repeat.

Observation:

  • Fresh fruit works better than vinegar in attracting fruit flies

fruit fly trap   So just for the record, I am smarter than a fly.